Broccoli in the Oven: Vintage Hellmann’s Broccoli Puffs


an overhead photo of round metal dish with broccoli and broiled cheese

The recipe tells you to whip two egg whites until stiff, fold in half a cup of mayonnaise, pile the whole thing on top of broccoli and put it in the oven.

So sounded like meringue on broccoli lol.

However, since I am determined to try recipes which were printed on packages in the last century, I proceeded. With cautious, but I did proceed.

I followed the recipe: cooked broccoli, mixed whipped egg whites, cheese, mayo and spread over broccoli.

In about 5 min I pulled out a dish of broccoli wearing a tall, golden, slightly wobbly crown that tasted like a cheese soufflé had landed on it.

It tasted FANTASTIC!!!!!

I filmed it for Instagram, and the reel took off faster than anything I’d posted before. So here is everything the reel couldn’t fit: where the recipe came from, why it works, the one mistake that will flatten it, and how to make it with a bag of frozen broccoli roasted in the oven.

A recipe that came with the mayonnaise

This recipe was printed on a Hellmann’s mayonnaise package, under the name Elegant Puffed Broccoli. [note, I am cooking form the book by Cecyl Dryer ] I call them broccoli puffs, because that’s exactly what happens in the oven.

I didn’t grow up with North American convenience food and was not really familiar with recipes printed on packages when I was growing up.

It is interesting to see how marketing campaigns changed the way American women started cooking. Recipes on the packages were convenient, readily available and easy to follow.

As for companies, developing recipes where you can use the product outside its conventional use, meant more sales, recognition, and reputation.


Why broccoli puffs work (and why the mayo isn’t strange)


An overhead image of a dish with broccoli and cheese on top

Here is the trick the recipe never explains: mayonnaise is already eggs and oil. Fold it into stiffly beaten egg whites and you have built something very close to a soufflé topping, without the flour, the cream sauce or the nerves.

The whites give it height. The mayo gives it richness and keeps the top from drying out the way a plain meringue would. The Swiss cheese melts into the foam and browns at the edges. Under the oven’s broiler the outside sets and turns golden in about four minutes, while the inside stays soft, almost custardy. The broccoli underneath stays green and gets just a little extra heat.

The choice of Swiss is smarter than it looks. It melts smoothly, it doesn’t turn greasy, and its mild nutty flavour lets the broccoli still taste like broccoli (however, I’ve used other cheeses and liked them as much).


In image of a recipe book opened on a recipe

Broccoli puffs recipe (original Hellmann’s version)


Makes 6 to 8 servings. Prep 15 minutes, oven 4 minutes.

Ingredients

  • 2 bunches broccoli cut into spears, or 2 packages (10 oz each) frozen broccoli spears, cooked and drained
  • 2 egg whites, at room temperature
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1/2 cup shredded Swiss cheese (2 oz) – I made this dish a few times, and used different types of cheeses, not strictly the Swiss one.
  • 1/2 cup Hellmann’s (Best Foods) Real Mayonnaise

Directions

  1. Arrange the hot cooked broccoli in a shallow 1 1/2-quart broiler-proof dish. I actually steamed broccoli using a steamer, steamed for 15 min. I also tried making this dish with frozen broccoli, see notes about that below.
  2. Beat the egg whites and salt with a mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form. I have a cheap not powerful mixer, so this step took some time.
  3. Gently fold in the cheese and mayonnaise. Don’t mix it, actually fold it in, otherwise beaten egg whites will deflate.
  4. Spoon the topping evenly over the broccoli.
  5. Broil 6 inches from the heat for about 4-5 minutes, until puffed and golden brown.
  6. Serve immediately.

How to roast frozen broccoli in the oven first (my upgrade)


The original says to cook the broccoli first and leaves the method up to you. Back then that usually meant boiling it. I think roasting is better, and it fixes the biggest problem with frozen broccoli, which is water.

To roast broccoli in the oven from frozen:

  1. Put a sheet pan in the oven and heat both to 425°F (220°C). A hot pan is what makes frozen broccoli roast instead of steam.
  2. Toss the frozen broccoli with a tablespoon of oil and a pinch of salt. Don’t thaw it first, because thawed broccoli goes soggy.
  3. Spread it on the hot pan in one layer with space between the pieces.
  4. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once, until the edges are browned and the stems are tender.
  5. Move the hot roasted broccoli into your broiler-proof dish, add the topping, and broil as above.

Roasted broccoli brings a toasty, slightly sweet flavour that plays beautifully against the soft cheese topping. If you only came here for how to roast broccoli in the oven, steps 1 to 4 work on their own, and you can stop there. But I’d make the puffs.


The one mistake that flattens broccoli puffs


I promised you this at the start. The puff is just air trapped in egg whites, and almost everything that goes wrong comes down to losing that air.

  • Wet broccoli. Water on the spears seeps into the topping, so it slides off and collapses. Roasting solves this. If you boil or steam, drain well and let the broccoli steam dry for a minute.
  • Stirring instead of folding. Use a spatula and a gentle cut-and-turn motion, only until you can’t see streaks of mayo. Stirring knocks out the air.
  • Waiting. This is the big one. The topping starts sinking a few minutes after it leaves the oven, and it sinks faster if it sits in the bowl before broiling. Whip the whites last, top the broccoli straight away, and carry the dish from the oven to the table.

Two smaller things: use room-temperature egg whites, because they whip higher, and keep any trace of yolk out of the bowl. Every broiler runs differently, so treat four minutes as a guide, check at three, and don’t walk away.


An overhead image of a round metal dish with broccoli topped with crispy cheese and eggs.

Roasted, baked or broiled?


The broccoli itself can be roasted, steamed or boiled.

The puff topping is broiled, which is the oven’s top element on high, and that gives it the fast golden crust.

You could bake it at 400°F (200°C) for 10 to 12 minutes instead. It will puff, but more gently and with less colour.


Is this the best broccoli recipe for a holiday table?


For a big holiday dinner, I’d argue yes. The broccoli can be roasted while the turkey or ham rests. The topping takes five minutes to whip, and it needs the oven for only four minutes at the very end, when everything else is already out. It looks impressive when it lands on the table, it uses ingredients you already have, and it’s the one vegetable dish people ask about. That was the whole point of putting it on the package.


Frequently asked questions

Can I make broccoli puffs ahead of time? Roast or cook the broccoli ahead and reheat it in the oven. Make the topping right before serving, because whipped whites won’t hold.

Can I use fresh broccoli instead of frozen? Yes. The original recipe gives both options. Fresh broccoli roasts in about 18 to 20 minutes at 425°F.

Can I use Miracle Whip instead of mayonnaise? You can, but it will taste different. Miracle Whip is sweeter and tangier with less oil, so the topping comes out sharper and less rich. The recipe was written for real mayonnaise.

Does it taste like mayonnaise? Absolutely not (not to me or my family). You won’t even guess there is mayo in here.

What should I serve it with? Anything roasted: chicken, pork, ham or turkey. The topping is rich, so keep the rest of the plate simple. I like eating it on its own: I find that eggs and cheese are quite filling and nothing else is needed.





For more recipes printed on boxes, cans and jars, browse the Package Recipes collection.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.